Hope In A Compact:
The lowdown
on anti aging make-up.
plus tips for looking fabulous after 40!
The latest Boomer Girl trend is cosmetics that not only make you look better, but do double duty as anti-aging skin care. Is it possible? Do they work? The RedDressDiary investigates.
by Colette Bouchez
As the anti-aging skin care market continues to grow at an unstoppable pace, the make-up industry has not sat idly by. Indeed, among the fast growing segments of the cosmetic industry today are make-up products designed for women over 40.
But if you’re thinking compacts full of optical illusions designed to hide lines and wrinkles, guess again.
The most significant cosmetic trend to come along since white lipstick and peacock blue eyeshadow are products that infuse hot new anti-aging skin care ingredients into the latest foundations, blushes , lipsticks and eyeshadows .
The net result: Short term glamour with long term benefits for the 40 something gal.
But as good as these combo products sound, are the anti aging skin care benefits really hope – or hype - in a compact ? The answer, it seems, depends a lot on what you want, need and expect from the contents of your make up bag.
Anti Aging Cosmetics: Hope or Hype?
While experts say it is indeed possible to upload cosmetic with anti-aging skin care properties, at least some are questioning the logic behind doing so.
Ken Beer, MD, director of Palm Beach Esthetics says it is definitely possible – but not quite as easy as it sounds.
"There is always room to add ingredients in significant amounts- the real issue is whether or not the ingredients penetrate and if so, what they do once they get there," says dermatologist Dr. Ken Beer, director of Palm Beach Esthetics and the author of Palm Beach Perfect Skin.
“Many of the molecules in products such as powders are too large to penetrate the dermis, so it’s doubtful they are going to get where they need to go to do the job,” says Beer.
And if they do, that penetration may come with a price.
“ "It is very difficult to deliver [into the skin] the good without including the bad - one reason why some of the anti-aging products are so irritating," says Schlessinger, president of the American Society for Cosmetic Dermatology and Aesthetic Surgery.
Indeed, when products designed to sit on the skin are blended with ingredients that must sink into the skin in order to work, Schlessinger says a variety of skin problems can erupt, including acne and rosacea.
When Skin Care and Make Up Collide
But even if you find these products don’t irritate your skin, most experts say that on their own they don’t contain enough of the anti-aging ingredients to do the whole job – you’re still going to need your basic anti-aging skin care.
Which then leads to an even more significant p problem: Combine the wrong anti-aging ingredients and you could be heading for trouble.
On the Not-so-bad end of the scale, the anti-aging ingredients in your skin care could cancel out the ones in your make-up, leaving you back at square one, with no treatment or protection at all.
On the “oh-no” end of the scale, dermatologist Dr. Sumayah Jamahl says the ingredients could interact in a way that will make your skin scream for mercy.
“This, for example, could occur if your anti aging skin care product contained Retinal and your anti aging make-up contained an alpha hydroxy acid – or even higher concentrations of Retinal.,” she says.
Separately, she says either one can be fine for the skin. But toss them on your skin at the same time and you could end up not only red in the face, but with an irritation so nasty it replaces those teenage acne years as your worst skin memory to date.
"Ingredient formulation is a precise science that requires expertise and understanding of ingredient solubility as well as ingredient delivery to the skin, " says Jamal.
Moreover, Schlessinger says that overall, the more ingredients a cosmetic product more likely your skin is to react in a negative way, including increasing your risk of allergic reactions.
" I don’t prefer jack of all trade [products] and they don't usually do what strict anti-aging products do - we typically recommend products that do the job the best, whether it is a sunscreen or anti-aging product – this seems to …keep allergic reactions to a minimum," says Schlessinger.
Now if you’re thinking you can solve this dilemma by using only anti-aging cosmetics and no other skin care, guess again. Experts agree that you’re not likely to get enough benefits from the cosmetics alone to see any significant difference in your skin.
"Trying to put a lot of different ingredients into a single product usually produces sub-optimal results – in general, you are far better off using higher concentrations of individual skin care products on their own, and then based on your skin type, budget and goals, finding a make-up that compliments your skin type. tone and coloring,” says Beer.
The one area where you can feel good about combining skin care with makeup is in using cosmetic p products that contain sunscreen – one of your best anti aging secret weapons. While Schlessinger says most make up with sunscreen doesn't offer enough protection to rely on it solely , it can add an extra layer that will be beneficial.
Beer agrees. "I would rather see women using a make up with sunscreen than nothing at all, but I tell my patients that it is better to select 30 SPF or higher sunscreen, and use individual makeup as a separate product," he says.